Un posto che prima di partire non riuscivo neanche a immaginare. Un'isola tutto sommato piccola, ma con distanze interne che diventano abissali. Una miriade di spot, concentrati in pochi kilometri, in grado di soddisfare dal principiante al pro e dove puoi surfare ogni santo giorno. Il paradiso terrestre (spacciato come tale nelle guide turistiche) che peró si nasconde qua e lá in spiagge semideserte, mare cristallino e onde perfette sulla barriera corallina a vista. Altrove il grigiore di un paese del terzo mondo in frenetico (e disordinato) sviluppo, baracche accanto a resort a 5 stelle, ecomostri abbandonati in zone di una beauty that we would be protected by natural parks. Degradation of up to hell traffic, smog and dirt of Kuta area, a swarm of sweaty tourists wandering among the booths and a sports pub with 24 / 7, narrow streets jammed with motorbikes, offering endless massages, and T-shirts transport. The western tourist is a walking gold mine for a myriad of Balinese offering any means and service for a few dollars to euro, which here, however, are worth thousands of rupees and provide a decent life rather than by local standards: just get enough 80euro withdraw from an ATM at the airport to become a millionaire! But a driver who brings you your own car in Canggu surfing a couple hours earned as a teacher in 3 working days ...
But since we are talking about surfing, here is an overview of the spots personally tested in rigorous random order.
Legian . The beachbreak where it all began, well done. I had booked online a small hotel in this area in order not to look for newly arrived late at night and with the baggage ... we found ourselves in a nice place (of course with Western prices), most of which couple surfers roots, at least in walking distance to the beach: it ideal for 2-3 sessions of training to the waves of the Indian Ocean, waiting to move to break more challenging. The first day, still upset from the time zone, I just caught a nice welcome with a powerful pair of beautiful feet and I got to test the period from 14 seconds (seems like a wave pool that is turned on from time to time) and clean- that sets up on time you sweep away unceremoniously. By swell down to 2-3 feet, however, playful and relaxing ripples in the water ...
Canggu . Prima di abbandonare definitivamente Legian, decidiamo di fare una scappatella pomeridiana a Canggu. Da signori appena arrivati, quindi con autista (in realtá eravamo terrorizzati dal guidare un motorino a noleggio e non ancora convinti dalle grazie del Suzuki Jimmy). Purtroppo succede quello che qualsiasi spot guide menziona, ovvero vento on-shore, che sebbene leggero sciupa un pó la qualitá dell'onda, peraltro giá scarsa visto lo swell di 3 piedi. Comunque si surfa molto meglio e piú misura rispetto allo spiaggione di Legian, Canggu calamita le poche onde presenti e l'alta marea contribuisce a rendere poco ripide even the biggest series ... Instead, do not you save strokes, the break is very far from shore and the number of breakers sometimes seem endless ... seems to be a Donoratico! 
Bingin . The place where we had only just escaped from Kuta: Full Moon Warung, a low hill, with stunning views as well as the break of Bingin (the take-off was just the right spot at the window of our room) over Dreamland and Impossibles. But one account is to see from above, another go at making swimming a kilometer, so in the end we do not have surfed or Dreamland and Impossibles we did not just 3-4 sessions in front of the house, because the average crowd was 30 people and appeared at their best the local tots that you could choose to stand by the window or the line-up as a wave in any case not take it! And if these were young people, let alone adults, who have never presented probably because with one meter and a half pipe and sporadic conditions considered too fly for their tastes!
Balangan . La baia accanto a Dreamland, quindi a un tiro di schioppo dal nostro warung: infatti necessitava di solo mezz'ora di macchina + scarpinata per arrivarci! Ci abbiamo surfato solo 2 volte ma rimane uno degli spot che mi é piaciuto di piú: affollato ma con spazio per tutti, onda non straperfetta come a Bingin ma nei casi fortunati veramente lunga, con una bella parete e abbastanza acqua sopra al reef da andare tranquilli senza scarpette con qualsiasi marea... Anche qui ci sono diversi warung direttamente sulla spiaggia e mi é un pó dispiaciuto not having slept a few days here to enjoy the glassy morning conditions without too many people out of the way!
Nusa Dua . A beautiful beach with umbrellas, bars, and even hire windsurfing, all in the midst of a mega resort with armed guards at the entrance. In the distance, more than 1 km from shore, the reef on which it saw waves whiten. It starts boldly beautiful boat and after 10 minutes we are unloading on the high seas: because it takes us a little closer? No time to ask the legitimate question and I'll see him get a huge number ... in practice we are on the peak! The current beast, aided by the wind pushes us for hundreds of meters along the reef ... saw the beginning of the dots away (surfers), but after half an hour we were there and the gathering point of the boat was now unattainable!
To conclude, before a set anomalous fringes before I give up the table (POD Alessio he loves like a son) and I dive under the water: I feel A little bit more pull and then nothing, leash broke and table adrift in the lagoon over the reef, thankfully still in one piece! If nothing else, in moments of panic when I try the table in the middle of the foam, a good soul comes to my rescue and shows me the wreck, this is Ruben, now the English Marbella 4 months in Bali, which then we'll drink a beer on the beach that will become our guide and semi-local for the rest of the holiday ...
Uluwatu. A legendary spot, a temple of the surf world as well as the Hindu religion. Now at the beginning of holiday we could not resist the temptation to go and see: we approached timidly, from small bars at the top of the cliff, with little swell and high tide. Poi un giorno, quasi all'improvviso, trascinati da Mark, siamo passati per la grotta e ci siamo ritrovati su 'The Peak' in condizioni head-high, marea media, quasi nessun local in acqua (troppo poco per loro) ma comunque uno sfracello di gente. Per fortuna l'onda é molto lunga e con swell medio-piccolo rompe in diverse sezioni, quindi anch'io dal basso della mia inadeguatezza ho avuto l'onore di prendere diverse onde!
Scarpette ai piedi e adrenalina a palla, dovuta piú alla fama dello spot conditions (actually quite quiet), often very long runs and the only difficulty which has been at the end to come, remavo with all your strength to the cave but the current side would take me to the rocks! I do not want to imagine how it is "normal" ... cmq also the return went well and, surprise, I discovered that he was immortalized in a dozen shots by photographers stationed on the hill ... pity that you could see from the photos that I took the smaller waves of the day, so I let them!
Kuta Reef . Other reef to reach by boat, but this time in front of the noisy chaos of Kuta and only a short distance from the runway of the airport! From the shore it is impossible to understand the size of the wave and the people there. I was a little hesitant, given the precedents, but this time I had to change my mind: the wave is on the metro, easy and above all pretty long. The icing on the cake: 3 people in the water when we arrived, shortly after leaving ... the expiration of 2 hours agreed with the pilot of the boat, Mark and Coco (who was here the first experience of his career surfing!) return to the beach: we stay another hour and I Alessio, incredibly alone, a wave-to-head in each set with comments and encouragement ... if it were not for a not very radical, a legendary session!
folk Note: Mark the good surf with the car keys in your pocket (without tie the costume) with the result that they end up in the reef fish meal ... Thank God that we are in Bali, just a little patience most of euros a 15in and a zealous "mechanical" factory there (literally) a new set of keys, after opening the doors with a pin hair ... hooray for safety!
Nusa Ceningan. short session the result of an adventurous quest in a day of low swell. In the second of our day to Nusa Lembongan, a quiet island without cars an hour by boat from Sanur, we decide to try this spot or that would require another hour by boat, or land ...
We opt for the land, and moped rental all x and so on narrow, bumpy island, up to a small bridge of wood 100 meters long (which barely passes a motorcycle at a time) that I seriously looked death in the face unscathed this bridge to get to the island of Ceningan, still a bit of dirt road and you come out ahead of this lovely little bay where a fringe left very little water, close to the cliff.
The swell was little, and then the conditions are easy enough, but easily intuits the radical del posto con onde "vere"... non rimpiango di essere stato altrove all'arrivo della mareggiata!
Nusa Lembongan - Shipwreck's . Finalmente una bella destra, in una vacanza dominata da innumerevoli sinistre... per la gioia dei regular Alessio, Mark e Ruben! L'onda rompeva sul reef abbastanza lontano da riva, proprio davanti al Linda's Bungalows dove abbiamo soggiornato x 4 notti. Le prime session abbastanza scadenti, con poca onda e spesso troppa gente. Poi é arrivato lo swell: un tramonto e un'alba memorabilli, con 2,5 metri tubanti e parete ripidissima, lunga, da video di surf... Purtroppo anche parecchia gente a godersi le condizioni, comunque la consistenza delle onde permetteva a tutti di surfare, a patto di remare come forsennati per contrastare la corrente che portava oltre il picco con conseguente inevitabile lavaggio di 100 metri sopra il reef... ottima occasione x un riposino e un pó di didattica gratuita offerta dai locals!
P.S: ringrazio il mitico Captain Aqua xi number of transport by boat to the reef, 10000rp/tratta, pay later, and ultra-flight entertainment ... everything was perfect except at sunset when you forget to come and take!
Medewi . Fitting conclusion to a wonderful journey ... No more radical spots, reefs and crystal clear water in sight under the table! At "only" 3 hours drive dal Bukit si trova questo point break di ciottoloni, con onda franosa e di una lunghezza mostruosa, quasi piú adatta al long (per una volta ho rimpianto di non avere il mio fish). Livello medio in acqua addirittura inferiore al nostro (per la prima volta dai tempi di Legian), take off anche ripido ma non cattivo e poi tutto il tempo di concentrarsi sui turns, fino a perdere il conto dei bottom... o fino a ritrovarsi fermi sulla spalla perché troppo poco ripida! La misura era ancora notevole (lo stesso swell preso a Lembongan, ma qui é anche piú esposto) ma niente a che vedere con le bombe di Shipwrecks...
In short relaxation, fun, improve and, why not a quintal of photos that have both done and then we could not resist the temptation to buy for a few euros ... Mom Mom looks like surfing!
0 comments:
Post a Comment